Sentry Box – Tale of Four Gamers: Age of Sigmar

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Welcome back to our Tale of Four Gamers series, the busy Holiday period is well and truly over and its time to check in with our four intrepid Warlords!

It’s been a little longer than we expected but progress has been made on all four armies and our staff have a lot more time for building, painting and playing games now!

First up Chris has shared his painting process with us for his Storemcast Eternals!

Chris:

I’m now a couple of units into painting my Stormcast. I didn’t really begin with a particular plan for which models to do first, rather my thought was to assemble and paint as I go. Unfortunately, one factor I overlooked is that if I want to begin playing small games with the Skirmish ruleset, not all the models I own are included – in particular, the ones from the Second Edition starter aren’t in there since the Skirmish book predates their release. There’s supposed to be some kind of update in the January issue of White Dwarf, so if I’m lucky it will include the needed info and points costs.

As I promised last time, let’s take a look at my general procedure for painting these guys. I think it strikes a pretty good balance between speed and appearance on the table. Let’s dive in:

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Super easy starting point: a nice even coat of Leadbelcher spray. I also went back with a big old brush and did a quick coat of regular Leadbelcher over top just to make sure there weren’t any bare spots that the spray might have missed. The largest block of colour on the miniature is now already halfway done!

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Base colors. This is the most time-consuming part of the process, but it still goes fairly quickly. Leather areas get a coat of Vallejo Moldel Colour German Camo Black Brown, while the metal details receive some Citadel Retributor Armour. Like I mentioned last time, the hammer (or whatever weapon they’re carrying) is painted with Vallejo Model Air Black Metal, along with the chainmail section of his tabard. Weapon grips are P3 Sanguine Highlight and any white details like the lightning bolts on his shoulder symbol are picked out with Citadel Celestra Grey. And of course, the tabard cloth and his shield receive that nice bold blue using Vallejo Game Colour Imperial Blue. Note that I’ve left the parchment strips alone for the time being, since I want to use a different wash on those spots.

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The step that brings it all to life – washes! The whole model gets hit with Army Painter Dark Tone, thinned 2:1 with water. This stuff looks just fantastic over all those metallic areas. I’m a huge fan of washes and it’s really what makes this paint scheme work.

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Now for highlights and details. With a small drybrush, I carefully go over the silver areas with some of Citadel’s Necron Compound. This brightens up the armour and brings out the edges, but I’m careful to avoid getting it on the non-metallic colors. I’ve also gone back to the parchment areas with some Rakarth Flesh and then shaded them with Army Painter Soft Tone (once again thinned 2:1). Highlighting the blue is the trickiest part of this step – the next color up from Imperial Blue is Magic Blue, but the jump provides way too much contrast. I’ve mixed a blend of approx. 2 parts Imperial Blue to 1 part Magic Blue to use as the highlight color. On the shield, I’ve used a damp brush to try and smooth out the transition between the two colors. I quite like the effect, but I’m not sure how well I’ll be able to duplicate the effect across all my models so I may end up having to change how I do it down the road.

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And lastly, a quick and effective base. Make sure to paint the flat areas black first to avoid any weird metallic spots where the primer might show through. The material I’m using to texture the base is a bit unusual – it’s some sort of crushed black glass or something that a friend of mine found (at IKEA, of all places). I love the effect it gives and all you need to do is cover the base with some ordinary white glue, dip it in and then tap off the excess. The base rim receives a couple coats of Vallejo Model Colour Burnt Umber, and the finished paint job is protected with a quick spray of Testors Dullcote. Finally, I’ve used some more white glue to add patches of Army Painter Steppe Static Grass, and a drop of superglue to secure a couple of Army Painter Highland Tufts. Ready for battle!

Next time I’ll have some photos of some completed units, and hopefully a report on some early Skirmish battles. Thanks for reading!

Next up, with a slightly different approach (and definitely not 100% responsible for this article not being ready for the end of January as planned…) Kris shows us where he has started with his Nighthaunt.

Kris: Hey all,

Its good to be back with another Tale of Four Gamers article, I finally decided on how I wanted to paint my Nighthaunt and after some time on the Games Workshop Painting App I decided that I would try to keep it as close to that as possible.

Having only downloaded the Games Workshop Painting app a few months ago I really enjoyed looking at the different techniques and ways they show to get specific colours and all that was left was for me to pick where to actually start on the army!

As Chris said in his write up, the new Skirmish Rules were coming in the January White Dwarf, so I decided to gamble on me being able to field one of the Core Units form the Nighhaunt Battletome in the Chainrasp Hoard.  Given that I arranged to split a couple of boxes I had 40 of these Spooky Ghosts to get done and decided to just get them all done in one go…

I am a huge advocate of Batch Painting for units as it lets you get stuff done a lot quicker and maintain a consistent standard across all of your models.  The first step for me was to look up the suggested colours for the Chainrasp Hoard in the App and then see what I was missing, luckily I was fairly well stocked and only needed a couple of the different Grey paints and of course the (relatively) new Nighthaint Gloom and Hexwraith Flame technical paints as I was excited to see how they would turn out compared to the Demo Set I painted for the store before they were release.

Going through step buy step on the App was relatively simple and it was fairly easy to use, there were a couple of things I would change if I was starting again but I think that is always the case!
I defiantly wont be doing another 40 model batch as whilst it was probably quicker over all to get the whole lot done, it was a little too tedious and I defiantly think that it lead to me taking some shortcuts.  I think the sweet spot for me and batch painting is 5-10 models but I am looking forward to trying out different levels on the next unit.

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All of that said, I am happy with how the two units turned out and I think it puts me ahead of the curve for when we move on from Skirmish games!
Getting the transition I wanted from the Nighthaunt Gloom in to the Hexwraith Flame was a little more challenging then the App made out and I messed around with a couple of different ways of doing it so I will try to get some in progress shots for next time.

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Speaking of next time we have some skirmish games planned and I need to pick some other units to go with my Hoard of Chainrasps, I am torn between the Tomb Banshee as although she is one of the older models I have always been a fan and never got around to painting one, some Grimghast Reapers because I have a lot of them from the starter sets I split with Chris and a Knight of Shrouds.

Once I get my hands on the new rules I will have a better idea of what I want to do but honestly, there probably isn’t a wrong choice!

 

Next up Jordan shares his progress on his Ironjawz!

This month I was able to power through painting the Start Collecting box, as well as a box of Brutes that I picked up from my December Budget. My paint scheme for this army follows a cold, icy theme, with pale skin and dark armor, and I get to use a really cool effect to make icy blue weapons as bright highlights.

 

In painting this project, I’ve been using paints from both the Citadel line, Vallejo’s Game Color, and Model Color lines. I’ve been enjoying using the Vallejo line slightly better as the squeeze bottles offer me more control over how much paint I use, and the paints are more consistent in their thickness and consistency. Citadel paints also tend to dry out around the rim of the cap, draining a substantial amount of useable paint from each pot, which I find really disappointing – I plan on phasing out my Citadel layer and base paints into Vallejo equivalents (or similar replacements) as the paints run out. The washes from Citadel are great, however, and avoid drying out the same way the layer and base paints do, as part of their thin, watery nature.

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Before painting my Ironjawz, I tried to make sure not to glue parts of the model that would layer on top of other details – the prime example being keeping armor plates off the model until it was all painted. This made painting the skin underneath the armor (and the armor that would face the skin) super easy and gave me a ton of control when painting.

The three main parts of painting the Ironjawz, apart from small details like skulls and pouches, are the skin, armor and weapons.  To paint the skin on the Orruks, I used Citadel’s Celestra Grey (applied in two thin coats, as always!) followed by Drakenhof Nightshade, and then layering back on top with Ulthuan Grey, avoiding the creases in muscles or facial details. This gives the look of pale skin, and the blue shading of Drakenhof Nightshade gives a cold blue touch to the creases and details of the skin.

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When I was painting the armor, I had originally started by painting with Vallejo’s black, then using a drybrush of turquoise (on the boar riders of the Gore-Gruntas, the Warchanter, and the majority of the Ardboys). Around then, I discovered Vallejo’s Gunmetal Blue in their Model Color line, and I was hooked. I got to paint the leader of the Ardboys’ armor, and the unit of Brutes, with the new scheme that I intend to use going forward: Gunmetal Blue, a heavy wash of Drakenhof Nightshade, and a drybrush on top of Lothern Blue. This gives their armor a dark, iridescent sheen, as the metallic Gunmetal blue peeks out from the shade and drybrush.

Finally, my favorite part of painting these models was to paint the weapons to be bright blue, icy blades, axes, and maces. I based these areas in white and then used Teclis Blue thinned down to being just thicker than a wash over them. Then I drybrushed these areas with white, giving them the look of sharpened ice shards.

I’m really happy with how this army is turning out, and I’m excited to get them onto the table in our upcoming Skirmish Games! (insert something about bashing and “waaagh” here).

Finally rounding out this months article we have Sam and her Sylvaneth army

 

Sam:

This month I focused on figuring out the paint schemes for the four seasons of Dryad units. I decided to spray them all with the Stormvermin Fur primer since it would be easier to work with without a clear scheme in mind. I planned primarily on the barks being different shades of brown.

For the summer trees, I used the Dryad Bark for the bark base coat, and then Waaagh! Flesh for the leaves base coat, and wasked with Agrax Earthshade. I then did some layering of Gorthor Brown on the front of the model where the bark looks like a skirt, and dry brushed Sylvaneth Bark all over the wood parts. I used Moot Green on the leaves to make them brighter and healthier looking for the summer season. I found this scheme to be pretty straight forward so I’m going to stick with it, as there aren’t a lot of steps or colour changes.

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Next I worked out the spring tree theme, using Gorthor Brown as my base coat this time to make the bark lighter than the other trees. I used Agrax Earthshade again after this as a wash, and painted the front skirt part with Baneblade Brown, and dry brushed the model with Baneblade Brown as well. I then painted the leaves on the model with Pink Horror to make them look like flower petals, and coated them with ‘Ard Coat for some extra texture and shine. At this point the model still looked unfinished, so I added a quick drybrush of Moot Green for a mossy and fresh look that really finished out the scheme well.

For autumn, I based again with Dryad Bark, and then washed this time with Casandora Yellow wash for a more decaying and weathered look. This added some great distinction of colour between the summer and autumn models since I was worried the bark would look too similar. I then used Averland Sunset to base the leaves, and decided after to add a few orange (Jokaero Orange) and red (Khorne Red) leaves for extra colour. To finish, I added a quick Gorthor Brown dry brush.

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Initially, I started the winter trees as grey, with a beige dry brush and some brown leaves, but they were too different from the other seasons. I’m planning on changing them to a more weathered brown bark and adding some snow to their branches to solidify the winter theme.

I’m planning on painting the models up with mostly spring theme, then summer and autumn, and winter having the least. The Ancient Treelord will also be in the spring theme since that ended up being my favorite look of them all. I am much more excited to play my first games now that my models are looking finished up.

I’m looking forward to showing them off and hopefully winning a match or two.

Thanks to our four gamers for sharing their progress and we look forward to hearing how they get on in their first trips to the table for some Skirmish Battles!

Did you start a new army this year? we would love to hear about your experiences so feel free to send us photos of your new armies and we will show off your work too!

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